In Gattinara, Restaurant Osteria Contemporanea is a small, well finished dining room where the focus stays firmly on the plate. Service is attentive and clear, and the wine list is built with real care, with Alto Piemonte as a strong thread throughout. It’s the kind of place where you can settle in and let the team guide the evening, glass by glass. JRE chef Agnese Loss cooks with the seasons and works closely with what the market gives her, with vegetables and offal playing a leading role. Her dishes are precise and expressive, with flavours that stay clean and recognisable. The restaurant mainly serves tasting menus, a straightforward way to show her style across a full progression.